Ghent (Belgium): A City of Light, Canals and Medieval Charm Without the Crowds

Ghent canals kayak

Located in the heart of Flanders, Ghent is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbour Bruges. Yet this Flemish gem offers a rare combination of medieval heritage, tranquil waterways and vibrant urban life — without the overwhelming presence of tourist groups. With a captivating light plan that bathes its historic architecture in golden hues after sunset, Ghent invites visitors into a living museum that remains authentic, accessible and deeply atmospheric.

Night Illumination of the Historic Centre

Ghent’s acclaimed lighting design transforms its medieval centre into a cinematic experience each evening. Since 1998, the city’s Light Plan has drawn international praise for its environmentally conscious approach to architectural lighting. Instead of glaring spotlights, soft, indirect illumination brings out the textures of ancient façades, bridges and towers.

The St. Michael’s Bridge is one of the best viewpoints to appreciate this night-time spectacle. From here, you can see the glowing outlines of St. Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry and St. Bavo’s Cathedral — three icons of Gothic architecture lined up like silent sentinels above the canal. The lighting not only preserves the romantic character of the city but enhances it.

Walking through the Patershol district at night is another highlight. Its narrow, cobbled alleys and gabled houses, lit with low-impact lamps, feel untouched by time. Unlike overly commercialised cities, Ghent’s lighting is never intrusive; it accentuates rather than dominates, contributing to the serene atmosphere that envelops the centre after dusk.

Why Ghent’s Light Plan Is Unique

Unlike many cities that simply flood their landmarks with harsh light, Ghent’s approach is rooted in restraint and storytelling. The goal was never to create a theme park, but to use lighting as a cultural and historical tool. This strategy was led by lighting designer Roland Jéol and has since been revised in 2012 to include new zones and technologies.

The plan uses warm colour temperatures and precise angles to highlight only the most significant elements of each building, preserving the visual integrity of Ghent’s UNESCO-worthy cityscape. It also reduces light pollution, protecting local ecosystems and preserving the view of the night sky.

This attention to detail ensures that every nocturnal stroll in Ghent is a peaceful, immersive experience. The lighting guides rather than distracts, turning even the quietest corner into a place of aesthetic interest and calm reflection.

The Gravensteen Castle and Its History

Standing proud beside the River Lieve, the Gravensteen Castle — or Castle of the Counts — is a formidable medieval fortress built in 1180 by Count Philip of Alsace. Though restored in the 19th century, it remains one of the most complete castles in Europe and is a powerful symbol of Ghent’s past as a centre of power and resistance.

The castle has served multiple purposes over the centuries, including as a court, prison and even a cotton factory. Today, it houses a museum showcasing weapons, torture instruments and insights into feudal justice. The views from its battlements offer stunning panoramas of the city’s spires and rooftops.

Visiting Gravensteen is more than a historical tour — it’s a portal into the political and military intrigues of medieval Flanders. The stone walls and towers carry the echoes of battles fought and alliances forged, all preserved in a remarkably intact structure that dominates the old town skyline.

Cultural Resonance of the Castle

Gravensteen is not just a relic; it is a living part of Ghent’s cultural fabric. It frequently hosts exhibitions, open-air theatre performances, and themed historical events that engage both locals and visitors. Its presence gives weight to Ghent’s identity as a city that values preservation without stagnation.

Its looming silhouette, especially when illuminated at night, adds a layer of drama to the city’s profile. Few urban centres can boast such a central, intact fortress — a fact that sets Ghent apart from many of its European counterparts.

The castle’s enduring popularity reflects the city’s broader approach to heritage: celebrate the past not with nostalgia, but through thoughtful integration with the present. Gravensteen stands not only as a monument but also as a platform for cultural expression.

Ghent canals kayak

Canals and Kayaking Opportunities

Ghent’s canal network may not be as globally iconic as Venice’s, but it offers a quieter, more immersive way to explore the city. Running through the historic core, the waterways are perfect for kayak enthusiasts seeking a fresh perspective on medieval towers and guild houses.

Kayak rentals are readily available, especially from Graslei and Korenlei quays — the beating heart of Ghent’s trading history. These areas boast elaborate guild buildings and bustling café culture, seen best from the peaceful vantage of the water. Paddling under centuries-old bridges while church bells ring above is an experience unique to Ghent.

Unlike many European cities, kayaking in Ghent is integrated with the urban flow, not sidelined. The waterways are clean, well-maintained and used by residents as much as tourists. You can even take guided kayak tours that explain the city’s layered history as you navigate its gentle currents.

Urban Nature in the Waterways

Ghent’s canals are part of a broader green philosophy. In addition to offering recreation, they serve as habitats for swans, ducks and migratory birds. The banks are often planted with native flora, supporting pollinators and enhancing biodiversity in the heart of the city.

For locals, kayaking is a sustainable transport option and a recreational activity that strengthens community ties. On weekends, it’s common to see student groups and families enjoying the waterways in ways that are respectful of the environment.

This unique blend of urban planning, recreation and ecological sensitivity illustrates Ghent’s commitment to smart, inclusive development. The canals are not mere tourist attractions; they are a living, working part of city life.